The best way to enjoy Coorg and
its legendary Kodava hospitality is to surrender to the charms of a homestay.
In one of India’s fastest growing homestay regions, travelers are spoilt for
choice. Opt for heritage homestays like Gowri Nivas, School Estate and Java
Mane, wildlife lodges like Elephant Corridor and Kalmane, plantation retreats
like Bamboo Loft, Alath Cad and Palace Estate, hilly escapes like Kabbe
Holidays and Honey Valley or riverside getaways like Polaycad Bungalow, Silver
Brook and Sand Banks. Staying with well-informed hosts is a great way to learn
about the culture of this fascinating region. Kodavas trace their lineage
through a maneypeda (clan name) and each clan has an ainmane
(ancestral home). Built mostly out of wood, the richly carved doorframes,
windows and ceiling panels are a visual treat. Check out the Nadikeriyanda
ainmane while staying at Keemalekad Estate.
Try Kodava cuisine & homemade wines
Savour Coorg’s signature dish pandi (pork) curry, usually paired with kadambuttu
(steamed rice balls). Other unique combination dishes include noolputtu
(string hoppers) with kozhi (chicken) curry, paputtu (steamed
rice cakes) with yerachi (mutton) curry and mutton pulao with kaipuli
pajji (bitter lime chutney) or vegetable pachadi (raita).
Vegetarians needn’t fret as Coorg cuisine integrates local produce like bemble
(bamboo shoot), bollari (gourd) and kumbla (pumpkin) curry, with akki
otti, ghee and honey. Wash it down with the perfect cup of coffee
and homemade wines that range from betel, rice, orange, coffee, tea, banana,
sapota, star fruit and other exciting flavours!
Visit the source of the Cauvery, South India’s holiest river
Pay your tribute at the unique Trimurti shrine at Bhagamandala, the sacred
confluence of the Cauvery, Kannike and Sujyothi. Continue uphill to
Talacauvery, where the Cauvery emerges from a spring. Collect some teertha
(sacred water) from the tank and climb the Brahmagiri Hill for a stupendous
view. According to legend, when the Goddess Cauvery took the form of a river to
revive the drought-stricken land, people gathered at the base of the hill to
receive her. The force of her currents was so swift that the pleats of the
women’s saris turned backwards. To this day, Coorg women wear the sari in this
manner.
Go on a coffee plantation tour
Despite being Karnataka’s tiniest district, Coorg is the largest coffee growing
region in India. A guided plantation walk through a coffee estate while staying
in a plantation bungalow is essential to trace the journey of the wonderful
brew from berry to cup. See how cardamom is grown and cured and pepper is
harvested to make green, black and white pepper. Make sure to buy Coorg coffee,
honey and spices like cardamom and pepper from the nodal towns of Madikeri,
Virajpet or Gonikoppal. Enjoy the life a colonial planter at Tata Coffee’s
Plantation Trails bungalows like Thaneerhulla, Woshully, Yemmegoondi and even a
tea estate stay in a land known for coffee!
Bathe, feed and ride an elephant
Take part in the amazing Elephant Interaction program at Dubare Elephant
Training Camp. An early morning visit allows you the chance to give the
wonderful creature a bath in the Cauvery, feed it gigantic balls of ragi and
jaggery followed by a ride in the adjoining jungle. Learn about pachyderms at
the old forest rest house that serves as an interpretation centre. And if
that’s not enough, head to Nagarahole, one of India’s best habitats of the
Asian elephant. Go on a wildlife safari in the national park, though a drive
along the highway is often more rewarding with frequent elephant crossings.
Discover amazing Waterfalls
Being a mountainous region criss-crossed with rivers and streams, Coorg has
some stunning waterfalls. Abbi Falls near Madikeri, where the famous croc scene
of the Bollywood flick Khoon Bhari Maang was shot, is easily the most
popular while Preity Zinta’s Liril ad was filmed at a cataract near Karike.
Mukkodlu near Kotebetta, Mallali near Somwarpet, Irpu near Srimangala and
Chelavara Falls near Cheyandane are also easily accessible. But deep within the
forests near Birunani lies the magnificent Sarathabbi, which only the most
adventurous can reach.
Marvel at the 30 ft high gilded statues of Buddha, Amitayus and Padmasambhava
at the Namdroling Golden Temple in Bylakuppe, India’s largest Tibetan
settlement. Spread across vast fields of corn and divided into ‘camps’, the
area is dotted with stupas, prayer flags and monasteries of the Sakya, Sera,
Kagyudpa and Nyingmapa orders. Try Tibetan fare like momo-thukpa and
pick up knick-knacks like hand knotted carpets, prayer wheels, flags, vajras
and incense.
Get an adrenaline rush
For the adventurous there’s no dearth of activities in Coorg. Go trekking, rock
climbing and windsurfing at Hyrige reservoir with Coorg Adventure Club. Try
river crossing and rappelling near Keemalekad with Coorg Outdoors. Go on an off
road ride, camping or a trek to Kerala with Crimson Eye. Do kayaking, canoeing
and river crossing in the Kabbe river and camping around Kakkabe with Jungle
Mount Adventure. For Quad Biking, zip-line and other adventures head to Now Or
Never Land outdoor activity centre. In the monsoons, go river rafting at the
KKR River with Barapole Rafting and Southern River Adventures.
Play golf in scenic
courses
Golfing in Coorg’s undulating greens is an invigorating exercise, made more
interesting by an occasional gaur or wild deer ambling across the fairway. The
challenging Mercara Downs at Madikeri, the popular Coorg Golf Links at
Bittangala near Virajpet and old favourites Pollibetta Golf Club and Belur Club
beckon golfers of all ages. Colonial era club houses with hunting trophies,
vintage posters and indoor games add to the charm. Non-members can request the
host/homestay to be introduced as a guest. Golf equipment and caddies are
available for a token fee.
Trek to Thadiyendamol,
Coorg’s tallest peak
After Mullaiyangiri in the Baba Budan Giri range, the second highest peak in
Karnataka happens to be in Coorg. Accessible from Kakkabe, the mighty
Thadiyendamol lures trekkers to experience the unparalleled beauty unfolding at
the peak. The lucky ones even recount seeing the Arabian Sea in the horizon on
a clear day. Coorg has numerous moderate to tough treks. Popular trails include
Thalathamane and Nishanimotte near Madikeri, Kotebetta near Madapur, Pushpagiri
near Somwarpet and Brahmagiri Wildlife Sanctuary near Irpu.
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